Baroque Emerald and Ruby Necklace

A rare Baroque pendant of exceptional survival, set with emeralds, ruby cabochons, and baroque seed pearls, the reverse finely painted in enamel with a polychrome floral rosette. The jewel is suspended from a ribbon-form bow mount, an early example of the bow motif which became fashionable in Europe during the later 17th and 18th centuries.

The central gold oval cluster is set with an emerald at the centre, framed by four smaller table-cut emeralds, as well as rubies cut en-cabochon, with eight drilled seed pearls suspended below on gold pins. 

Above, the chased and enamelled bow contains an additional table-cut emerald. The reverse is painted in polychrome enamel with a pink rosette surrounded by black scrolls, typical of the mid to late 17th century.

The bow form reflects the “mania for ribbon” that dominated European dress between 1660 and 1680, when garments for both men and women were lavishly adorned with tufts and loops of ribbon, echoed in the ornament of contemporary jewels.

Date: c.1660–1680

Origin: Central Europe

Materials: 21k gold (tested); emeralds; ruby cabochons; seed pearls; enamel

Dimensions: 4 cm x 1.5 cm (pendant only); 66 cm later 9k gold chain with barrel clasp

Weight: 12.3g

Condition: Excellent for age; minor enamel losses; small chip to central emerald not affecting stability

For comparable pendants with bow mounts and enamelled reverses, see examples in the State Historical Museum, Moscow and the Victoria and Albert Museum, London (see final photos). The design vocabulary closely parallels ornament prints by Gilles Légaré (1610–1685), which disseminated the bow and ribbon motif across Europe.