Georgian Hessonite Garnet Ring

A stunning and rare Georgian era hessonite garnet ring dating to around 1780. The ring is set with a marvellous large 5.5ct deep orange gemstone, known as hessonite garnet; a rare variety of grossular garnet not frequently encountered in Georgian jewellery, and even less often seen in a stone of this impressive size. The colour is particularly intense and vibrant; a rich, glowing burnt-orange with that characteristic syrupy warmth that makes fine hessonite so desirable.

Unusually for the period, the central stone is set open-backed. Many Georgian rings were closed and foiled, which over time can darken or degrade; this example allows light to pass cleanly through the garnet and makes modern cleaning straightforward. The centre stone is framed by a border of rose-cut diamonds in crimped collet settings. Their soft, silvery sparkle provides a beautiful contrast to the saturated orange of the garnet. The octagonal bezel measures approximately 17 × 14mm and the shoulders are decorated with lovely pierced ornamentation, giving the ring excellent finger presence.

Excellent condition overall; no visible nicks or scratches to the garnet, which has been recently professionally polished by my jeweller. The diamonds remain well set and lively.

UK size J, US 4.75

Weight 4.92 grams

Unmarked but tests as 18K gold

Either English or possibly French

A fine late 18th-century cluster ring; a rare gemstone choice in a bold and very wearable scale.