Italian Baroque Turquoise Bow Ring
An unusual example of a scarce seven-stone bow ring dating from the early 18th century, circa 1700. The ring was made in Italy (possibly Sicily) and is a fine example of the beauty of the Baroque period. Known regionally as āa fioccoā rings (bow rings), these traditional pieces were originally gifted as engagement or wedding rings. Rings of this type were popular in Italy from the mid 17th century up to the mid 19th century, with the earliest examples featuring enamelled and scalloped backs.Ā
This ring, with its carved and enamelled shoulders and āpie crustā edges is typical of rings dating from the second half of the 17th century. However the combination of both gold and silver, as well as the rounded setting for the central stone indicates an early 18th century date (Chadour, 1994).Ā
Ā During the late Baroque era, bows became an indispensable element of fashion and it became popular to pin jewels against ribboned bows; and soon, bow-shaped jewellery such as the SĆ©vignĆ© brooch and the seven-stone bow ring became widespread. While regional or design variations may result in different bezel styles, gem selections, sizes, or cuts, the essential seven-stone arrangement remained unchanged for over a century.
In the present example, an oval-shaped turquoise is surrounded a cluster of rose cut diamonds and purple glass cabochons. All the stones are set in closed back silver settings. Towards the end of the 17th century, goldsmiths began to make diamond settings from silver as they believed that only a white metal mounting could render the true beauty of a diamond. The underside of the bezel is fluted, typical ornamentation of the 17th to early 18th century. The shoulders are chased with scrollwork leading to a smooth D-shaped shank.Ā
UK ring size P, US size 7.5
The ring weighs 3.49 grams, the silver bow section measures 15mm x 7mm on its longest axes. The ring is unmarked but tests as high-karat gold (21K) and silver.Ā
The ring remains in good condition despite being around 300 years old.Ā
For similar examples, see items AF.2175, AF.2168, AF.1574 and AF.2167 in the British Museum; and accession number 437-1868 in the Victoria & Albert Museum.
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Description
An unusual example of a scarce seven-stone bow ring dating from the early 18th century, circa 1700. The ring was made in Italy (possibly Sicily) and is a fine example of the beauty of the Baroque period. Known regionally as āa fioccoā rings (bow rings), these traditional pieces were originally gifted as engagement or wedding rings. Rings of this type were popular in Italy from the mid 17th century up to the mid 19th century, with the earliest examples featuring enamelled and scalloped backs.Ā
This ring, with its carved and enamelled shoulders and āpie crustā edges is typical of rings dating from the second half of the 17th century. However the combination of both gold and silver, as well as the rounded setting for the central stone indicates an early 18th century date (Chadour, 1994).Ā
Ā During the late Baroque era, bows became an indispensable element of fashion and it became popular to pin jewels against ribboned bows; and soon, bow-shaped jewellery such as the SĆ©vignĆ© brooch and the seven-stone bow ring became widespread. While regional or design variations may result in different bezel styles, gem selections, sizes, or cuts, the essential seven-stone arrangement remained unchanged for over a century.
In the present example, an oval-shaped turquoise is surrounded a cluster of rose cut diamonds and purple glass cabochons. All the stones are set in closed back silver settings. Towards the end of the 17th century, goldsmiths began to make diamond settings from silver as they believed that only a white metal mounting could render the true beauty of a diamond. The underside of the bezel is fluted, typical ornamentation of the 17th to early 18th century. The shoulders are chased with scrollwork leading to a smooth D-shaped shank.Ā
UK ring size P, US size 7.5
The ring weighs 3.49 grams, the silver bow section measures 15mm x 7mm on its longest axes. The ring is unmarked but tests as high-karat gold (21K) and silver.Ā
The ring remains in good condition despite being around 300 years old.Ā
For similar examples, see items AF.2175, AF.2168, AF.1574 and AF.2167 in the British Museum; and accession number 437-1868 in the Victoria & Albert Museum.
