18th Century Portuguese Cluster Ring
A rare Portuguese ‘minas novas’ rock crystal ring, crafted circa 1770 in 15K gold. This marquise-shaped cluster features a central faceted crystal surrounded by two concentric rows of foil-backed stones, separated by a typical Portuguese gold beaded border. The stones—ranging from seafoam green to dusty blue—glisten beautifully in candlelight.
Originating from the mines of Minas Gerais, Brazil, 'minas novas' quartz became central to Portuguese jewellery design in the late 18th century, enabling jewellers to create rich, gem-laden pieces like this.
The closed-back bezel curves to fit the finger, and although the shank was replaced in the late 19th or early 20th century, it matches the original in tone and style. The ring sits flat on the finger and remains in great wearable condition. Minor age-related wear includes facet abrasions, some foil darkening, and patina to the gold.
A comparable example appears in Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection (nos. 957 and 958).
UK size N½ / US size 7
Weight: 7.41g
Cluster head: 28mm x 18mm
Tests as 15K gold
Limit water exposure to preserve the foil backing. A fine piece of late 18th-century Portuguese craftsmanship.
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Description
A rare Portuguese ‘minas novas’ rock crystal ring, crafted circa 1770 in 15K gold. This marquise-shaped cluster features a central faceted crystal surrounded by two concentric rows of foil-backed stones, separated by a typical Portuguese gold beaded border. The stones—ranging from seafoam green to dusty blue—glisten beautifully in candlelight.
Originating from the mines of Minas Gerais, Brazil, 'minas novas' quartz became central to Portuguese jewellery design in the late 18th century, enabling jewellers to create rich, gem-laden pieces like this.
The closed-back bezel curves to fit the finger, and although the shank was replaced in the late 19th or early 20th century, it matches the original in tone and style. The ring sits flat on the finger and remains in great wearable condition. Minor age-related wear includes facet abrasions, some foil darkening, and patina to the gold.
A comparable example appears in Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection (nos. 957 and 958).
UK size N½ / US size 7
Weight: 7.41g
Cluster head: 28mm x 18mm
Tests as 15K gold
Limit water exposure to preserve the foil backing. A fine piece of late 18th-century Portuguese craftsmanship.
