Antique French Three Stone Ring

A very striking and unusual large gold three stone ring dating to the late 19th century, circa 1890, made in France.

The twisted and tapered rope hoop is beautifully crafted in 18K gold and set with a vibrant garnet-topped doublet. A fascinating flashback in gemmological history, this uncommon composite gemstone was sometimes used in early Victorian jewellery and is formed from a thin natural garnet cap mounted over a coloured glass base; in this example a deep blue glass base beneath a fine red garnet layer. This rare encounter is a particularly nice and interesting specimen.

Developed in the mid-19th century, the garnet acts as a natural lens which enriches and deepens the colour beneath, producing a remarkably rich and luminous appearance. Today these stones are valued not as imitations but as ingenious examples of early jewellers’ craftsmanship and a distinctive feature of period jewellery.

Either side of the central gemstone sit two stunning rose cut diamonds with fantastic clarity, approximately 0.4ct each. The setting is open to the reverse, allowing light to reach the back of the stones.

This ring is a true piece of excellent craftsmanship from the period and remains in very good condition considering its age. A French eagle hallmark indicates 750 gold (18K) and Parisian manufacture.

UK size V, US size 10.5

Weight 9.4g