Edwardian Pearl Beetle Necklace

A striking and imaginative Edwardian beetle necklace, crafted around 1905 in 18K gold and set with a natural saltwater blister pearl, rubies, and diamonds — a fine example of early 20th-century jewellery in the whimsical Fabergé style.

The pendant takes the form of a beetle, its body formed by a striking baroque blister pearl of deep iridescent blue-green tones. This imaginative use of irregular pearls to create miniature animal figures is a tradition dating back to the Renaissance, revived in the Belle Époque by workshops inspired by Fabergé’s naturalistic creations. The head is set with a cushion-cut ruby, flanked by two tiny rose-cut diamonds as the beetle’s eyes, with further rose-cut diamonds across the shoulders. The pendant is suspended from a claw-set half pearl framed by two circular-cut rubies, all connected to the original 18K gold anchor link chain.

The necklace is entirely original, including its concealed barrel clasp — a desirable period feature. Total weight is 8.05g, with a wearable length of 19.5cm. The pendant drop from upper pearl to the bottom leg measures 4cm; the beetle body itself measures approximately 2.5 x 1.5 x 0.8cm.

A verbal gemmological report from GCS confirms the central blister pearl to be a natural saltwater specimen - an increasingly rare material in period jewellery.

In excellent antique condition with no replacements or repairs. This is both a collector’s item and a conversation piece: an expressive example of Edwardian design drawing on Renaissance and naturalist influences, with fine materials and unmistakable charm.