Italian Emerald and Diamond Necklace

A magnificent Italian emerald and diamond necklace of exceptional weight and craftsmanship, created during the 1930s–40s. The design reflects Italy’s taste at the time for jewels inspired by 18th- and early 19th-century traditions, with gemstones cut and set in the manner of Georgian and Victorian era jewellery.

The necklace is composed of 28 step-cut emeralds, totalling approximately 11.05 carats, and 91 old mine-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 8.63 carats. The diamonds are mounted in silver-topped 18K gold rubover settings, each with large open cutlets characteristic of antique stones, while the emeralds are framed in cut-down comet settings. Six principal cluster panels form the centrepiece: three oval clusters, each with a further tear-shaped drops below. 

Though not strictly “revival jewellery,” this style represented what was fashionable in Italy during the early 20th century: a return to heritage forms and enduring techniques of gem setting. The open-backed construction allows both natural brilliance and ease of cleaning, making it practical as well as spectacular.

A jewel of imposing presence, the necklace weighs an impressive 57.41 grams and measures 44 cm (17.5 inches) in length. It is completed with a concealed cluster clasp and an additional safety chain.

Date: c.1930s–40s

Origin: Italy

Materials: 18K gold with silver settings; emeralds (approx. 11.05 cts), old mine-cut diamonds (approx. 8.63 cts)

Dimensions: 44 cm (17.5 in) length

Weight: 57.41 g

Marks: Stamped 750 on safety chain

Condition: Excellent; natural inclusions to emeralds consistent with type